26/07/2018 14:00 - Salle D
Christos E. Papoutsellis will present his postdoc results
An approach is presented for the treatment of breaking waves in the coastal zone, within the limits of wave models based on free surface potential flow theory. Assuming irrotational flow and a non-overturning free surface, potential flow theory is not able to directly simulate the breaking of waves and their post-breaking evolution. In order to overcome this limitation, the strategy adopted in this work involves a breaking wave identification algorithm, based on certain local criteria of initiation and termination, such as the vertical velocity of the free surface elevation. The identified breaking waves are forced to dissipate energy through the action of an appropriate external surface pressure applied locally. Two different pressure terms are examined, derived by assuming an analogy between a breaking wave and an hydraulic jump. In order to assess the performance of the present approach, the calculations are compared with experimental measurements of plunging or spilling breakers over barred and sloping bathymetries.